Clutch Replacement By ID Trav
Clutch Replacement By ID Trav
copied from outside CPC
This writeup is for an A20 engine but should be similar for the carbureted engine.
Removal
This procedure leaves the engine in situ and therefore I found the most difficult part to be lifting the gearbox back onto the clutch/engine. This is also based on using a FULL clutch kit.
Start by removing the battery & battery tray
Intake pipes
Looking down at the linkages you will be able to see a gap between the rear crossmember and gearbox just wide enough to use a 12mm socket to undo the main gear linkage arm, leave the bolt in because it's easier to remove by hand from underneath. (Note. bushes fall out when linkages are removed)
remove the Wheels & place the car on axle stands
upper & lower mounts from gearbox
Starter motor
Drain gearbox oil
Undo speedo cable
Undo clutch cable
undo reverse light switch
undo ground strap
undo clips on inner cv boots
undo centre axle bearing bolts/block x3
Working in the wheelarches undo the damper pinch bolt using 14mm
undo the top camber adjustment nuts using 17mm
undo the bolts securing the brake rubber pipe/ALB wire to the wishbone (upright) using 10mm
push down on the disc using your bodyweight to unfasten the damper from the fork and take note of the axle coming out of the inner cv because the 3 bearings drop out
Remove the centre shaft from the gearbox
Working underneath the car undo the gear linkage support arm using 10mm
undo the engine bed using 14mm
undo the front gearbox to block mount
undo gearbox bolts and lower it to the ground in stages on wooden blocks do this to make life easier on your back and note that when it is being lowered it has a tendancy to turn (top to the left) and also rests on the tiebar unless carefully guided
undo clutch pressure plate bolts with a star 10mm socket/spanner
remove clutch friction plate
Carefully remove spring arms from release bearing
Inspect shaft the bearing sits on if severely worn it must be renewed (rare)
Inspect Clutch for purpose of failure
Inspect flywheel contact surface
Using provided grease, apply to the shaft the bearing sits on
Replacement
Replace release bearing this can be aided by using the clutch cable lever and a flat screwdriver to gain leverage
offer up clutch plate to the flywheel noting flywheel side marked on the clutch
Replace pressure plate and hand tighten bolts
Align clutch using clutch aligner or old input shaft or as i did using a socket extension that fitted the recess in the flywheel
Note at this point if you havent got the clutch centred properly the gearbox will NOT go back on and your back will tell you about it later...
It's good to have a passer by/assistant at this point.
While you lift the gearbox to a height to match the level of the engine have the assistant push a jack in underneath
offer up the gearbox noting clearance of tiebar
Insert all the gearbox bolts & THEN tighten
connect mounts
connect front gearbox to block mount
refit centre axle
refit centre axle bearing to the block bolts x3
working under the wheelarch
regrease & refit axles
refit damper pinch bolt using 14mm
refit camber nuts using 17mm
refit rubber brake pipe/ALB clamps to wishbone(upright) using 10mm
refit wheels
working underneath the car
refit engine bed
refit gearlinkage support arm using 10mm
place bolt through gearlinkage arm(tighten from above using 12mm) also re-inserting bushes
Working from above
Replace starter motor
battery tray & battery
speedo cable
Clutch cable (leave 1 inch of free play)
connect reverse lights switch
ground strap
Refill gearbox oil
replace intake pipes
Close hood
Go for a pint... Idea
This writeup is for an A20 engine but should be similar for the carbureted engine.
Removal
This procedure leaves the engine in situ and therefore I found the most difficult part to be lifting the gearbox back onto the clutch/engine. This is also based on using a FULL clutch kit.
Start by removing the battery & battery tray
Intake pipes
Looking down at the linkages you will be able to see a gap between the rear crossmember and gearbox just wide enough to use a 12mm socket to undo the main gear linkage arm, leave the bolt in because it's easier to remove by hand from underneath. (Note. bushes fall out when linkages are removed)
remove the Wheels & place the car on axle stands
upper & lower mounts from gearbox
Starter motor
Drain gearbox oil
Undo speedo cable
Undo clutch cable
undo reverse light switch
undo ground strap
undo clips on inner cv boots
undo centre axle bearing bolts/block x3
Working in the wheelarches undo the damper pinch bolt using 14mm
undo the top camber adjustment nuts using 17mm
undo the bolts securing the brake rubber pipe/ALB wire to the wishbone (upright) using 10mm
push down on the disc using your bodyweight to unfasten the damper from the fork and take note of the axle coming out of the inner cv because the 3 bearings drop out
Remove the centre shaft from the gearbox
Working underneath the car undo the gear linkage support arm using 10mm
undo the engine bed using 14mm
undo the front gearbox to block mount
undo gearbox bolts and lower it to the ground in stages on wooden blocks do this to make life easier on your back and note that when it is being lowered it has a tendancy to turn (top to the left) and also rests on the tiebar unless carefully guided
undo clutch pressure plate bolts with a star 10mm socket/spanner
remove clutch friction plate
Carefully remove spring arms from release bearing
Inspect shaft the bearing sits on if severely worn it must be renewed (rare)
Inspect Clutch for purpose of failure
Inspect flywheel contact surface
Using provided grease, apply to the shaft the bearing sits on
Replacement
Replace release bearing this can be aided by using the clutch cable lever and a flat screwdriver to gain leverage
offer up clutch plate to the flywheel noting flywheel side marked on the clutch
Replace pressure plate and hand tighten bolts
Align clutch using clutch aligner or old input shaft or as i did using a socket extension that fitted the recess in the flywheel
Note at this point if you havent got the clutch centred properly the gearbox will NOT go back on and your back will tell you about it later...
It's good to have a passer by/assistant at this point.
While you lift the gearbox to a height to match the level of the engine have the assistant push a jack in underneath
offer up the gearbox noting clearance of tiebar
Insert all the gearbox bolts & THEN tighten
connect mounts
connect front gearbox to block mount
refit centre axle
refit centre axle bearing to the block bolts x3
working under the wheelarch
regrease & refit axles
refit damper pinch bolt using 14mm
refit camber nuts using 17mm
refit rubber brake pipe/ALB clamps to wishbone(upright) using 10mm
refit wheels
working underneath the car
refit engine bed
refit gearlinkage support arm using 10mm
place bolt through gearlinkage arm(tighten from above using 12mm) also re-inserting bushes
Working from above
Replace starter motor
battery tray & battery
speedo cable
Clutch cable (leave 1 inch of free play)
connect reverse lights switch
ground strap
Refill gearbox oil
replace intake pipes
Close hood
Go for a pint... Idea
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